Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Comment & Analysis

For each grip in your set of encores you should be aiming to fail on the last hang (No. 6 or 7) in that set and for every subsequent set afterwards. The big rest in between sets should allow sufficient recovery (adjust it if not).

You can incorporate fingerboarding in a number of ways into your training cycle, it also depends on what facilities are available to you. On a prioritised 4 week cycle we'll do big fingerboard sessions after a rest day, the day after a session usually involves normal bouldering or a rest day depending on how intense the prior session was. We often fingerboard after going out bouldering in the winter, this is more of a double session approach and usual when we've been rained off etc.
The jury still seems to be out on whether 5 1 hour sessions a week work best or about 3 2hr sessions. And we'd appreciate emails/with thoughts and personal experiences on this in order to build up a database of training vs gains/time.

We do very little campussing as a rule, and we're certainly no experts in it. More on this some other time. I know climbers such as Adam Pustelnik, Rich Simpson are fairly big advocates and excellent examples of it.

We usually warm up on the board on a fingerboarding session, in a fairly regimented manner to give an indication of how sparky the forearms are feeling.


Blogger Matt said...

Thanks for the quick reply...

February 24, 2009 at 10:52 AM  

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