Tuesday, January 13, 2009

magnum peaeye's training log

I was going to train on Saturday and Sunday but managed to get food poisoning so I spent Saturday being sick and Sunday feeling sick. Anyway by Monday I felt ok and pretty light so I had a quick fingerboard session in the morning which included:

Front 2 encores
Back 2 encores
Front 3 crimp encores
Middle finger mono encores
Assisted middle 2 crimp encores


I felt strong on the first set of each but faded fast as I hadn’t really eaten for 2 days. Pretty average session.

In the evening I went on the board. I wanted to do power endurance but gave it a miss as I felt so weak and P.E training really takes it out of you. Instead I worked body tension and pinches on the 65 degree board. I am very bad at pinching (as you can see from Dan's video!) and have been trying to sort it out by making up lots of steep pinch problems with bad feet. Session went quite well considering how I felt in the morning.

After this we watched ‘half ton son’ which made me feel really light, so I went home and ate a lot.

3 Comments:

Blogger Richdraws said...

Could you tell me why you favour encores and repeaters over the usual recipe of 3-8 second hangs with quite a lot of rest? Clearly it is working for you and I am wondering whether to get involved.

Rich

January 13, 2009 at 9:58 AM  
Blogger Beastmaker.co.uk said...

what is the usual recipe rich?
basically encores seem to give you more bang for your buck,

they combine 7 hangs of 7seconds duration with 3 seconds rest inbetween. that's 7 contractions for each arm over a 49 second duration, which we've found so far to best replicate power problems and strength gains. (i'll cite some power studies when i get a chance)

encores are so the arms dont get weak as well as different locks being harder to hold on different grips.

cheers. Dan

January 14, 2009 at 3:36 AM  
Blogger Richdraws said...

Thanks Dan,
You can find my usual recipe here
http://www.beerexpert.co.uk/BeerRecipes.html

Rich Simpsons workouts on Spoonclimbing.com are all 3-8 second hangs with 2 min rest between sets. I am very interested in trying the encores/repeaters as I think encores work your arms in a more compound way than regular hangs, working multiple joints at once. I always suspected that the stimulus for growth or even recruitment might be too small with the 3-8 second style of hang with long rests. Never did anything about it like.

Congrats on your recent climbing achievements, nicely as.

Cheers

Rich

January 14, 2009 at 6:09 AM  

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