Picking up the pace

Just a few notes on training. Myself and Ned are going to try and keep an upto date training blog until Februaryish when we go to font for a mini holiday after Exams. We'll try and break it down so that its easy for readers (all 2 of them!) to steal ideas from it and apply similar concepts to their own stuff, rather than barrage you with theory which is all very interesting but hard to put into practice and routine.

2 quick amendments also:
If your training things at full lock try to lean out and up (should feel it in thy shoulders) as traditional full lock seems to cause and obscene amount of elbow jip for little practical gain, seems obvious but hopefully it'll help if you've ever had elbow troubles. All the other locks are far better for you elbow-wise.

Ned's been doing full sets of encores 7*(7x3) on the 45 degree slopers with no tricks, try it (or the few of you who have the finished boards anyway)... Its BRICK!

Also St Bees in the winter is really FICKLE, not that its massively popular or anything i just need to vent off a little after all my best geography knowledge was thwarted despite getting everthing right! basically it can be really slow to dry and climbing on soggy rock is a bad idea for it and you. I trained on the fingerboard when i got home after the 2 hour round trip though and am starting to find some winning combos.

Try to take about 3 sessions of fingerboarding to work out exactly how to tap a weakness best before you really go for stuff, its taken me this long to work out how to specifically emphasise index finger training over the rest of my hand whilst still having a full session... more on this later (oh i bet you can't wait for such riveting reads) we'll try and do some interesting stuff too if the weather lets us.


If your waiting for an email response please wait until after Sunday and hopefully you'll see why! its nothing to do with fingerboards honest ;)