Monday, December 29, 2008

rounding up

Things have been quiet over christmas for obvious reasons, we've been taking a bit o' relaxo time and putting it in the bank as the sawdust should start flying next week. All has arrived and we are just a few microns out from spinning up Dave's ultra machine. Meanwhile i'm building up a quad core PC to edit all my backdated footage, most of which is of us falling off the last moves of problems. I've also just got back from a few days of squatting on planks in snowy switzerland which was much fun. Since i've been back the weathers been optimus prime and i took my fresh upper body and aching thighs straight to Kentmere to remind myself how crap i am...Very... Microns of progress were made on Little Women (which Dave Graham was shown in mistake for Shadowplay) It was still a perfect day despite the shutdown and the problem inspires me to improve as the current start will probably be the hardest single move & problem i've done, in rivalry with another proj, the low start adds 3 more hurrendous moves into 4 already hurrendous moves and John atleast had the decency to give this 8b/+ despite it being easily 2 full grades harder than Zerberus.

This brought me to a reflection on my best bouldering moments of the year, I'd love Little Women to be one of them but with only 2 days left its going to be tight.

so the others are.
0 The mission 7b+. in Torridon, I arrived just before sunset after 2 days hard training as it was forecast to rain, the sun was chucking out red light whilly nilly and it was just me and a really nice bit of engaging climbing which took a while to figure out, worth the 13 hour round trip on its own i'd say and a big thanks to Mr Betts for the vision. An inspiring venue which may represent the future for the UK

0 Mutton Busting 8A+. Blackwell Dale. (AKA lime season) Ned got psyched for something outdoors and promptly burned me off, my broken pinky whinge was becoming weaker by the day and i was left with slapping up the second ascent of a stella problem. A nice bit of climbing with good mates really made it good, leo getting fed up with technique and 1 armering most of the holds also made for good times. Doing Bigger Belly (easier moves than little women) with a totally buggered left pinky after a week of getting light enough to crush off the floor rather than slap, developing candy buttress on Neds birthday was also cool, as was a 2nd RP send of Kali Yuga (nice one Ru)

0The Shrubbery 7C+ish Simonside area. going from looking at an amazing line to climbing it, decking out after my rope flicked off the prow, dealing with midges and moss, and ending up with a heel dyno off an index mono followed by voyageresque clamping and a wild cut loose, plenty more to do here too. Pebble Patrol, the Magician, Reiver and CHeck out me Tyres also made for good times, especially Reiver which is one of the best blocs i've ever done

0 Champ Ramp (probably really 7C+ but hard to tell as we were goosed) Howlerhirst. Daves' vision and my brushes created a brutally slopey rising traverse which both of us had to fully dig deep on to get along it, Dave's ass rocket and my appaling ability to walk normally also made it a special day

0 Zerberus (much easier than little women) going from doing all the moves in a session and linking it roughly in 2 after a play with Sharik and declaring it piss to falling off the last moves about 6 times due to bloody Euro endurance stlye not agreeing with my biceps, The Stubborn mule was unleashed and heels were dug in the next time, first Erberus and Zerberu were done as warmups then Zerberus was wobbled up, good to have Scoots and Matt keeping my mood upbeat so i didnt go into an pommie grumble and playing aussie rules in the road in high vis jackets. Classic bloc and really nice climbing. And a strange tick for a sport climbing trip.

telling every strong German that i met that they were bang out of order with Gaskins was also necessary and that time will show that you shouldn't go poking the biggest juggernaught of a bull in the field with your horns if your only a little Steinbock.

Nice little ones:
0Font in Feb for 4 1/2 days, simply awesome.
0Discovering Mike Adams's secret world of hard blocs and doing nick Drake's classic Riverman and Riverdance with Ned and Dave.
0 Getting back on the board after Germany and finding everything utterly piss and promptly regrading stuff and sanding footholds down.
0 Constantly bumping into Nacho (the spanish leo) at sheffield's Drum and Bass nights
0 Failing on Little women for 4 days and my queens project for another 4 (added to the 20+) so far, driving me to become more resilient, as resilience is the weapon of the weak and i am constantly finding ways to feel it.


Blogger robbieholden said...

nice blog guys, keep up the good work. nice to see a local climber climbing so hard. (i'm from heads nook).

December 30, 2008 at 12:11 PM  

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