Wednesday, July 30, 2008

A Royal Visit

So for once in british bouldering everything spouted around actually happened. Queens had 10 people at the crag at one point on Saturday and chalk was even visible on some of the blocs. Full respect goes to Ben, Keith and Ned for making the Journey in a day visit. Just shows that: He who dares... to drive somewhere different; will enjoy himself.
Unfortunately the Law of the Sod smote ben down by growing him a knee for an elbow with a patella sized swelling and a rash that would make a ginger kid proud.
So team Baximuscle Feehally & Bradbury were left to deal some heavy blows to queens. BBC champion started well upto problem No 4 with an excellent official send of 'The Power is On' Bradbury swiftly followed with a crafty send showing he's not all about the pulling and has some good sandstone nouse. Queen Kong held off all comers and bit 3 bloody diamonds into keiths hand as he tried to squeeze her 2 aretes into 1 to make Partage, she was having none of it. Ned used his combi legs well with average leg to arm distance about 30cm and soon clamped upto the crux on many occasions, suffering a torn heel on his shoe for his troubles.
The Rabbit Stone wrapped up the day nicely and we all fell off a nice easy 7b called Red Dragon then had a quick play on a poxy eliminate arete project which should be a nice 7c+ addition to the crag.

Dissertation work has Begun and Gangle is now the 3rd british owner of a full sized Beastmaker training board. These are the 12foot by 8foot 50 degree versions. and as a result i have a sore back so i might go and hang from my fingers for a bit. Videos will start appearing when my pc gets upgraded enough to edit them.
Ned has just buggered off to South Africa for 2 weeks too see how the whites deal with the "Im so white people use me for metering white balance whites " and sock them a bit of empethetical justice for their years of wrongful opression and homelands policy, either that or he's gone on a nice family holiday.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

The Shrubbery 2

The Shrubbery 2
Originally uploaded by Beastmaker. inc
Index Monos! who'd have thunk it'd be worth training em

Dave caressing primeval champ ramp

Dave champ ramp
Originally uploaded by Beastmaker. inc

the shrubbery

the shrubbery
Originally uploaded by Beastmaker. inc

projects, chocolates and icing.

So let's see then ive been busy since i've gotten home mostly sorting fingerboard stuff and dissertation stuff out. July began with some furtive sorties to Cambidge where upon i attended some May balls and saw my sister graduate with a first (and kick into touch any hopes of me competing academically) I did manage 4 bridges in the punting bridge challenge however and am keen to return for Kings and the bridge of sighs one night (not in the day!). I also managed to injure (endure) cambridges beastliest board of Scoots, (Seargent Symettry himself) by ripping 2 holds off whilst feeling clumsily strong, She didnt approve of this and counterpunched a middle finger tweak into me, so as a result i haven't crimped anything for the last month. This has basically meant selective projects and lots of time on my 2000. as a result my drag strength has gone through the roof, as have my index finger monos. my middle fingers are my secret weapons however, and so lots of icing has lead to a speedy much needed repair. My hardest projects need all fingers ship shape.

My busted LH pinky is firing at about 85% strength again, although its safe to say that i pretty much managed without it in sheffield this term but its nice to have her back.

Things are looking good for 'The Big Projects', I'm also keen to get on alot of Andy and Malcs stuff up here in Englands nicest bouldering area. I have been upto Ravensceugh twice, The Magician is world class and i got lucky in a go or two as the crux is an easy identical replica of one of my projects... so i moved onto Reiver which i though was more like font 7c for mere 6 footers, the crux is at about 5m with an enthusiastic pond spotting you, although the moves are engaging and flowing enough to ignore this, and for some really nice climbing to emerge. Ground up is so much more satisfying when you top out, i guess its like solving a crossword by battling it all day or looking up the final few answers when the going gets tough, the former is always more worthy. I also climbed a line to the left of "check oot me pipes" thought i'd call it "check oot me tyres" ...more on this when i get some pics of lackadaisical mates.

I've had the chance to send some more spiffing projects around the county too. Highlights being "Primeval Champ Ramp" at Howlerhirst with Dave 'Tiger' Jones, this is a really pure striking ramp line that climbs like someone trying to sweet talk the meanest bouncer you've ever seen. from the second you pull on it wants you out of there, stick on your pig head and mule back and squeeze your way to glory, it is so smooth it sands your skin into soft faggy hands, luckily due to the fact i dont sweat this just made me fall around like a surfer with no wax. we both got a bit pissed off at being spanked by said problem so we employed some good old fashioned british burl and silently sent her packing.

we then pratted about in the pen area on no hands problems and The pen dyno. im pretty sure nearly none of you have a clue where i'm talking about as apparently Bowden and kyloe in is the only rock in northumberland to outsiders, so i feel safe leaving my silly projects for now.

Oh and i found a new(ish) crag the other day with some of the most ridiculous bouldering lines on grit about, again i still have more projects there but i managed to pick off the biggest and gnarliest one in a session (i think) it involves a dynamic heelhook off an index mono and some serious swings and sloper action, Some of the moves are similar to voyager and lowrider. Possibly the most fun i've had in a while on a new bloc. the top probably deserves a big E number but people boulder big these days, last move is to a one pad mono in a sloper mind, which i bottled as was utterly goosed which ended up with a hero spot off John and me catching the crater plane on a swift flight down the hill, bruises heal quick mind. Anyway i called it 'The Shrubbery' because there is one at the end of the normal boulder problem bit and its a lovely addition to the bloc. Other than that i have mainly been in the garage of gurns doing lots of specific training for my hard projects (for me anyway) and eating all the chocolates that the kids gave my parents at the end of term (jammy teachers)
word is BBC champion, Unclesomebody and Dobbin wonder mule might be coming to meet the Queens this weekend! if it happens it should be great banter. Bring on the downgrades.
thats all for now...
Quiet Beast

A beginning...

So here we go, myself, Ned and Dave have finally got our arses into gear enough to bundle a slap dash company together. We have been training on the Beastmaker 2000 for a year now and have both seen considerable gains in strength. Ned is conveniently the BBC champion and i have been busy on the outdoor front finding outdoor projects that hopefully take me more than a session or two. Dave is the behind the scenes techno beast who has hand built a 4 axis CAD CAM machine as few other companies seem to meet our design standards. he can also pick up an 8'x4' sheet of ply by pinching it in the middle and has been known to do the odd one armer (a mandatory prerequisite for all employees).
So on account that we need to spread the word that the campusboard benchmark of fingerboards has finally arrived. I have agreed to regularly sell my soul and share some of my rocky adventures with anyone who can be bothered to read it. Going by the last week it should hopefully be atleast a slightly above prosaic read as we get out often due to being bloody students and i'm basically a hardcore outdoor climber and board beaster.

A quick note on the boards: they are made from sustainable english sources, at present they are made of tulip wood however this is likely to change as sustainable supplies do, we will try to insure quality is never compromised (i.e. dont use pine or other poorly textured woods) and they should provide you with the comfiest least tweaky terribly small holds to get strong on.

so without much ado let the verbal tirade of self publishing commence

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