Wednesday, July 23, 2008

projects, chocolates and icing.

So let's see then ive been busy since i've gotten home mostly sorting fingerboard stuff and dissertation stuff out. July began with some furtive sorties to Cambidge where upon i attended some May balls and saw my sister graduate with a first (and kick into touch any hopes of me competing academically) I did manage 4 bridges in the punting bridge challenge however and am keen to return for Kings and the bridge of sighs one night (not in the day!). I also managed to injure (endure) cambridges beastliest board of Scoots, (Seargent Symettry himself) by ripping 2 holds off whilst feeling clumsily strong, She didnt approve of this and counterpunched a middle finger tweak into me, so as a result i haven't crimped anything for the last month. This has basically meant selective projects and lots of time on my 2000. as a result my drag strength has gone through the roof, as have my index finger monos. my middle fingers are my secret weapons however, and so lots of icing has lead to a speedy much needed repair. My hardest projects need all fingers ship shape.

My busted LH pinky is firing at about 85% strength again, although its safe to say that i pretty much managed without it in sheffield this term but its nice to have her back.

Things are looking good for 'The Big Projects', I'm also keen to get on alot of Andy and Malcs stuff up here in Englands nicest bouldering area. I have been upto Ravensceugh twice, The Magician is world class and i got lucky in a go or two as the crux is an easy identical replica of one of my projects... so i moved onto Reiver which i though was more like font 7c for mere 6 footers, the crux is at about 5m with an enthusiastic pond spotting you, although the moves are engaging and flowing enough to ignore this, and for some really nice climbing to emerge. Ground up is so much more satisfying when you top out, i guess its like solving a crossword by battling it all day or looking up the final few answers when the going gets tough, the former is always more worthy. I also climbed a line to the left of "check oot me pipes" thought i'd call it "check oot me tyres" ...more on this when i get some pics of lackadaisical mates.

I've had the chance to send some more spiffing projects around the county too. Highlights being "Primeval Champ Ramp" at Howlerhirst with Dave 'Tiger' Jones, this is a really pure striking ramp line that climbs like someone trying to sweet talk the meanest bouncer you've ever seen. from the second you pull on it wants you out of there, stick on your pig head and mule back and squeeze your way to glory, it is so smooth it sands your skin into soft faggy hands, luckily due to the fact i dont sweat this just made me fall around like a surfer with no wax. we both got a bit pissed off at being spanked by said problem so we employed some good old fashioned british burl and silently sent her packing.

we then pratted about in the pen area on no hands problems and The pen dyno. im pretty sure nearly none of you have a clue where i'm talking about as apparently Bowden and kyloe in is the only rock in northumberland to outsiders, so i feel safe leaving my silly projects for now.

Oh and i found a new(ish) crag the other day with some of the most ridiculous bouldering lines on grit about, again i still have more projects there but i managed to pick off the biggest and gnarliest one in a session (i think) it involves a dynamic heelhook off an index mono and some serious swings and sloper action, Some of the moves are similar to voyager and lowrider. Possibly the most fun i've had in a while on a new bloc. the top probably deserves a big E number but people boulder big these days, last move is to a one pad mono in a sloper mind, which i bottled as was utterly goosed which ended up with a hero spot off John and me catching the crater plane on a swift flight down the hill, bruises heal quick mind. Anyway i called it 'The Shrubbery' because there is one at the end of the normal boulder problem bit and its a lovely addition to the bloc. Other than that i have mainly been in the garage of gurns doing lots of specific training for my hard projects (for me anyway) and eating all the chocolates that the kids gave my parents at the end of term (jammy teachers)
word is BBC champion, Unclesomebody and Dobbin wonder mule might be coming to meet the Queens this weekend! if it happens it should be great banter. Bring on the downgrades.
thats all for now...
Quiet Beast


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