Sunday, October 12, 2008

which track to take when training?

I had a fingerboard session today after nipping up some lovely problems outside yesterday. Now Ned's cellar ain't no normal cellar, there's not a drop of wine to be seen and its got more weight belts in it than muscle beach. It also has a some rather peculiar growths on the beams, consisting of:
3 Beastmakers (2 custom pimped, 1 normal)
1 bleaustone fingerboard (small)
1 moon fingerboard (grey)
5 campus rungs (various sizes)
lots of screw on handholds

so its a pretty good place to hang off stuff. So where's the beef? we'll the question is what difference does it make what the hell you hang off? i could have had a whole session on just one of the campus rungs and my feet would still have left the floor for the same amount of time, the only problem with this is that i actually want to improve quickly whilst hopefully avoiding plateaus and i am aware of my weaknesses/goals second day on.
So lets see them

well... i hate full crimping on fingerboards especially second day on.

i was pretty goosed today and only had a vague session structure, which was: I need to train for my project.

so given the smorgasboard of potential edges what did i go for? well my skin was as raw as a sick babies nose so that immediately ruled out any chance of pulling on resin so that left wooden rungs and beastmakers.
I quickly found myself getting re-aquainted with the beastmaker (after a month off it) and warming up through its grips, i started on the 35 degree slopers doing encores (repeaters + frenchies) followed by warming up front 2 middle 2 and back 2 on the nice big pockets, then i warmed up the drags with a few 1 arm drag encores on the RH little eye.

I quickly found myself inspired to try some of my previous records and really pushed myself, i'm really glad i designed my board (on a selfish basis) as it pushes me every time i stand under it, i am still weak at index and pinky monos aswell as hanging the 45 degree slopers with no tricks, i can also see that if i improve these so they are useable i might just be able to drag my wobble buns up one of gaskins 8b+'s and if i can do 1 arm encores on the 35 degree slopers then alot of the awesome 8bs in font will fall.

these boards give me an immediate view to higher levels, i can look at it and immediately see, even on a lazy day, where the future strength is. If i turn around and look at a campus rung all i see is a plateau of monotonous gripping and vague improvements.
i can't see a 1 pad mono staring at me which will be useful on Action Directe, or a back 2 pocket which helped make a new font 8a i did the other day feel like 7b.

people will shell out 20 quid to get inspired watching the latest dvd, then they'll spend hours crimping a sanded door frame to save a bit of money and wonder why its taking so long to improve, and why they can't see their gains.

Also, a thought for the week is being twice as big. learn pull downs off a pulley and in a year you'll have twice as much lock and twice as much reach. don't jus stop when your chin gets to the bar, keep going till your head cracks the ceiling. then learn 1 arm pull throughs... see what i mean, dont just stop because you can do 20 pullups

progression comes through motivation, application and repetitive change.
motivation requires a form of inspiriation. mine comes from projects and their equivalent holds on my fingerboard.

don't make excuses make targets


Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home