Saturday, August 16, 2008


Firstly the weather is really making us pay for a 0.3degree temps rise lately, the azores high has gone on strike and is refusing to take its northern summer vacation and the scandinavian high pressure has migrated over to its estranged iceland, this is rather efficiently funneling barrage after barrage of fronts over Blighty, which seem determined to keep me in the garage on the Beastmaker campus set up of 2000 models. 147 has been cracked off on the 35 degree slopers and it is one of the finest problems known to man. other records are being chased down with the regularity of raindrops on english soil.
By some freak coincidence it stopped raining on friday so i went out to do some fieldwork for my dissertation but got sidetracked a little so this only happened after climbing Torniquet and Mentally sending Shadowplay on my second session of finding holds and envisioning how to pull on in all the positions, the mental send went smoothly with a minor concentration lapse coming into the top of torniquet as i got one blank bit of wall confused with another for footholds. Next session i reckon ill try pulling on in the positions which in reality is probably approaching 8a alone. Little women is pissing me off royally as there is one move still evading me, i feel my finger is still holding me back on the crux crimp and its probably a stupid problem to try on the way out of injury town but its getting personal now after session number 2 and next time things are going to get slappy.
on the plus side the jura is now only just over a week away and my pocket strength is off the scale thanks to being injured. im toying with dropping my 3kg of blubber zone and really punching some stuff out but the question arises as to whether it is better saved for a bigger fight. Watching the olympics has inevitably helped training psyche and Usain bolt is the gaskins of running. Shadowplay is an inspiration to have in such an unlikely setting, Its not in another country, but it is in another world. A world where the crux of hubble feels pretty easy and where footholds mean a slightly more vertical patch of rock. for a replica of the crux move i'd recommend glueing a 2p slightly sticking out of a 70 degree roof as an undercling (for LH) and for footholds i'd just hit the board with a large hammer and use the dinks, then practise locking this off at shoulder height and grabbing a very slightly incut box of matches way up and right. there are another 3 moves of similar difficulty. I am under no illusions that at this present time there is no chance of me climbing this problem, which gives me roughly the same chance as any other climber on the planet. Oh and its a good line too and it never gets wet (Major plus in england), so no excuses there. Its safe to say i will mostly be undercutting alot on the sheffield board next year. the worlds best boulderers can carry on running 9.8 seconds and happily looking to the right whilst gaskins trots home in 9.6 on the left. If we sell enough fingerboards i'll be giving him a donation out of sheer respect.
Ned is probably coming up for a business meeting next week, items on the agenda are crushing multiple font 8a's and trying to send a project thats nearly in Johhny G territory.


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