Monday, January 25, 2010

font part 1

We have been out in font for a week and have had a total of about 5 hours on dry rock! First day looked promising, blue skies and sunshine were just what we wanted. It was straight off to the big 5, where better to start? Most of rampart was wet so with a hasty warm up we jumped on tristesse. After a few goes getting the feel for the big move, it was in the bag (Tom crushing it straight after). Next was big golden. After pulling on and getting lost somewhere near the first gaston a kind French man suggested a sequence that was much more promising. In a couple more goes this one was in the bag too.

Finally it was on to atresie. I knew there was a crucial kneebar, but I just couldn’t figure it out. I spent half an hour playing about with it but I couldn’t make it work. I was getting pretty sacked and was about to walk away, until lee suggested “stop messing about and put your knee in”. Oh right, that’s what you do. One more go! This time the knee worked so much better and I found myself at the last move, only to find that it was the crux move. In a few more goes I had it sussed and lurched through to the finishing jugs! 4/5 in the bag (I did fourmis rouge last year). This was a good start to the trip. Then the rain came. It rained a lot.

The only other climbing we have done since then has been short sessions at cuvier and rampart seeking out any dry rock we can. I have managed a few more problems, including big boss (which was finally dry), finishing off the big 5, a goal of mine for years! I will aim to put a full ticklist up at the end of the trip, until then I will leave you guessing what else I have been up to!

Weather is looking to improve in the next few days. I hope it does. We are going crazy. Lee has just lost an arm wrestle with himself. I think we need the rocks to dry.


Blogger Nizza Grandpouce said...

Good effort mate. You guys had better sort out the weather situation, before we get out there!

January 26, 2010 at 1:09 AM  
Blogger Adam Long said...

Has Lee earned the right not to wear the Scarpa badge yet?

January 27, 2010 at 6:10 AM  
Blogger Fabi said...

Hey guys,

hope you have some good days and we will see us in the Baguette County.

Greets from the winter Jura


January 28, 2010 at 2:05 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

hi, you will still be there end of february? I'm joining nizza for his first week, perhaps we eventually manage to meet

February 4, 2010 at 3:49 AM  
Blogger indigo said...

oh, so you can hold these outer slopers... damn, maybe i should not fix my bar next to the oven :-O

February 5, 2010 at 8:13 AM  

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