The Móðguð
A strange thing happened last weekend, i put a harness on! AND I climbed in it rather than using it to take weight off deadhangs! After finishing Uni i just felt having a fun and novel day out in the peak, wise mr JonBoy and i journeyed to Thor's cave, whence upon we came across many a steep route. Jon mentioned a project as being rather ruddy good, and seeing as though it was one of the dryest things in there i decided to have a fettle. After a session of work i'd cleaned and worked a vague sequence, but i was so broken after getting home i went straight to bed and curled up in a ball to stop my abs hurting. This project certainly isn't you average cup of chai, nor is any move on it conventional.
I decided to seize the chance to get it done and returned on tuesday and finished cleaning the line and got a sequence worked, even redpointing into the final boulder problem which currently was a super burly 7c bicep busting undercut span fest, it was meatier than a bath full of spam with gravy pouring out the taps. The little voice in me told me to use some nouse and right at the end of the day i fagged it down to 7a+ish with some spine twisting drop knee action.
So on Thursday all the pins were lined up ready to be knocked down for a full strike. I kidded myself that i was fit enough and walloped it first redpoint with some numb tips and the mojo of the Uk's premier 8c astrophysicist beaming up the rope (and consequently draining Stu's powers for the day).
So Móðguð (pronounced moth goose in a heavy scottish accent) has been born, guardian of Helheim and translated as "the furious battler" it rather fits what looks to be the Uk's steepest 8b/+ it seems closer to 8b than plus to me but the start and finish boulder problems both suit my size and strengths. One thing which is sure to not change is the quality of the route, the line is fully 3 star battling, with double heel toe cam shuffles, knee bars, crimpy gaston shoulder pressing, massive burly undercut moves and a wild finishing cutloose into the respite of the belay cave.
Right... i can take my harness back off now for a bit and concentrate on 2 move boulder problems again
Oh and most of Thors cave is now dry and i can't recommend it enough as a brilliant sport venue, Thormen's moth was still a bit wet yesterday but it was still possible, and all the routes in there are truly outstanding when dry. Móðguð is one of the dryest routes there as well as being the steepest. It will never get wet in rain.
I decided to seize the chance to get it done and returned on tuesday and finished cleaning the line and got a sequence worked, even redpointing into the final boulder problem which currently was a super burly 7c bicep busting undercut span fest, it was meatier than a bath full of spam with gravy pouring out the taps. The little voice in me told me to use some nouse and right at the end of the day i fagged it down to 7a+ish with some spine twisting drop knee action.
So on Thursday all the pins were lined up ready to be knocked down for a full strike. I kidded myself that i was fit enough and walloped it first redpoint with some numb tips and the mojo of the Uk's premier 8c astrophysicist beaming up the rope (and consequently draining Stu's powers for the day).
So Móðguð (pronounced moth goose in a heavy scottish accent) has been born, guardian of Helheim and translated as "the furious battler" it rather fits what looks to be the Uk's steepest 8b/+ it seems closer to 8b than plus to me but the start and finish boulder problems both suit my size and strengths. One thing which is sure to not change is the quality of the route, the line is fully 3 star battling, with double heel toe cam shuffles, knee bars, crimpy gaston shoulder pressing, massive burly undercut moves and a wild finishing cutloose into the respite of the belay cave.
Right... i can take my harness back off now for a bit and concentrate on 2 move boulder problems again
Oh and most of Thors cave is now dry and i can't recommend it enough as a brilliant sport venue, Thormen's moth was still a bit wet yesterday but it was still possible, and all the routes in there are truly outstanding when dry. Móðguð is one of the dryest routes there as well as being the steepest. It will never get wet in rain.
Labels: beastmaker fingerboards training, sportclimbing, thors cave
posted by Beastmaker.co.uk at
9:59 AM
1 Comments:
Effort beastcake! Long live the cave of Thor! As near to Spanish cave madness as you'll come in this country.
Loving the bat hang pic. Would be keen to get back there and get some pics of other stuff there.
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