all quiet on the beastin' front
I have been training alot lately, partly due to the increased workload at Uni and partly due to a niggle i picked up over easter. Alot of people stress over injuries wondering what to do. Personally (and this is purely my mis-informed opinion) i prefer to start an icing regime within a week of the niggle emerging, i then try to train round it as best as possible depending on severity. Currently i am attempting to increase the strength of my index finger so that it can take more load. This appears to be working at the moment via a combination of front 2 encores & board problems, index monos and devil hangs (along with plain stubbornness). I intend to keep this regime up for another 4 weeks whilst gradually transitioning back into a crimp phase. All being well i might actually be able to get strong at crimping then.
Ned too is heading back to basics and targeting the fingers after an annoyingly set world cup round found weaknesses in the on the porky pinches (wide ones).
It's been a good while since i trained this specifically and the main battle is avoiding over training and cumulative niggleitis (when everything starts tweaking).
I find looking at goals over months or longer help to prevent the "must train everything in one session mentality" which only leads to problems.
sticking a 500ml coke bottle of water in the freezer and holding it for long durations as part of cold treatment helps, it also avoids 'bath skin' which you get from prolonged cold treatment by sticking your hand in icy water. You can also make free ice/gel packs from washing up liquid or alcohol (the latter being good for post icing relaxing) and high quality freezer packs.
Ned's started work on the 2000elite (the holds are so small the writing would look too big next to them otherwise) and i've started to root out some good psyche mixes to train to. The prototype boards will also be made out of a few experimental hardwoods (recycled/sustainable of course) which should be amazing, like really amazing, stick it on a mantle piece and frame it amazing.
that's all for now.
Ned too is heading back to basics and targeting the fingers after an annoyingly set world cup round found weaknesses in the on the porky pinches (wide ones).
It's been a good while since i trained this specifically and the main battle is avoiding over training and cumulative niggleitis (when everything starts tweaking).
I find looking at goals over months or longer help to prevent the "must train everything in one session mentality" which only leads to problems.
sticking a 500ml coke bottle of water in the freezer and holding it for long durations as part of cold treatment helps, it also avoids 'bath skin' which you get from prolonged cold treatment by sticking your hand in icy water. You can also make free ice/gel packs from washing up liquid or alcohol (the latter being good for post icing relaxing) and high quality freezer packs.
Ned's started work on the 2000elite (the holds are so small the writing would look too big next to them otherwise) and i've started to root out some good psyche mixes to train to. The prototype boards will also be made out of a few experimental hardwoods (recycled/sustainable of course) which should be amazing, like really amazing, stick it on a mantle piece and frame it amazing.
that's all for now.
Labels: beastmaker, beastmaker fingerboards training, fingerboards., tips
posted by Beastmaker.co.uk at
6:57 AM
1 Comments:
Quality post name, almost as inspired as A Fridge Too Far!
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