Monday, August 4, 2008

fixing up looking sharp

First Major news is that we are upgrading our Cad Cam machine even more so its fully pimped out ready to make the 5000, this means production of all models will be going by october, and even if i only sell 1 5000 to myself i shalt beeth happy as i'll know it was worth it to create such a cool thing. until then hold your hearses

On the climbing front my middle finger is fixing nicely and feels pucker, this means i can crimp again, however dragging is the new black and now i can do both rather nicely a happiness been restored into my climbing, injuries really make you feel the benefit when they're not there, i enjoy training round them (by not using them and abusing everything else) more than laying off as i think it makes you stronger.

Simonside got a visit on tuesday after a rather beastly fingerboard session the day before. things started well with some milktray chocolate delights for the journey there (layer 2 was saved for the way home) my 7b+ project was wet so we went upto potts buttress which is a brilliant few blocs, i got spanked by return of the spring as my arms weren't working and the wind got so bad it was blowing 3 tied together pads away. We then cleaned up some nice 8c projects (no joke) on a new simonside bloc, which will be amazing if the chicken heads stay on. Unlike Pebble patrol which lost a crucial(ish) one before the guide but springer thought he'd fire it in as an overhanging sandbag. after a bit of nipple tweaking and 1 finger crimping a new sequence was found and clamped up like a fat kids nipples in a secondary school changing rooms. It was nice to get some bite back and crimp again as its been months, it ended up being a curious yellow style snatch for the top hold where you need to hold the moment you hold the hold and say CLAMP MUTHA DUCKA and pull in the beak. it climbs about 1 foot right of the old line at about 7b+. if your over 75kg you have a good chance of destroying this problem so i'd suggest an automatic tick in that you could quite literally rip it off the wall. got it all on vidoe but i can't edit it due to slowness of pc and lack of decent editing software, which should be ammended soon.

I coasted down to kentmere yesterday and started my dissertation properly, managed to do LOTS and will be going back right after i get back from Torridon and Reiff where i'm hoping there are some decent sandstone blocs and projects around the 7b+ to 7b+ region.

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