Tuesday, August 17, 2010

water proofing

This is something i've wanted to do in the peak for ages, never mind future proofing. Since coming to the peak i have yearned after climbing Monumental Armblaster and Sean's roof. Two of the finest examples of routes in their style that the peak has to offer. Both, however, seemed to be under an ever deepening clag-olith of depressing gloop. That was until this year that is, and the gloop turned to crust, from which holds revealed themselves. With Sean's not having been climbed in a decade, and quietly having shed some holds (haven't they all!) there was a fair bit of beta to be procured. The start was all easy enough, it just involved a bit of elbow grease and for the rock to be dry enough. But sure enough within a session it was only the last move stopping success, and the go before this one:

I'd stuck the last move with this beta. But after that fall and a weeks shoulder stiffness I decided there must be a better way to boulder it out. With a rope taking the swing off the jug is better beta and i can see why all the old guard say the start is the crux and can't remember much about the finish , and rope tension certainly plays a role in this too, providing a nice grey area of uncertainty as to whether you received the tiniest of helpful tugs. A few sessions, and an swift & impressive roped ascent from the daddy Adams, later (his first route since pretty much forever!). I still couldn't match the finishing jug without the face in road beta, but gradually some fun beta arose from cutting earlier off the smaller crimps and doing a hard move to get the jug, which then turned into a brilliant heel hook move once Ned'd refined it. And voila Sean's is now a fantastic 8a+ boulder which won't get you run over on a bad go. It'd be my vote for the best of its kind on limestone even if it is barely ever dry. Boulderers debolting a sport route, that'd send a clear message to the sport gods to stop stealing all the boulderers. Its not something i've ever heard of but this is a prime candidate ;) It's not like its far from the road, infact its a bit too near it really. you could bring a high jump mat if you wanted, but 3 mats is perfectly adequate with this beta. Leo 'mojo' moger (he don't know nothin') also put his mandible crimps to their usual STRONG use even after a crash diet of steak and beer.
To top the day off a rogue cyclist accosted us with a short ditty. C'mon lads you're better than that, think of your heritage think of your past."

...Indeed, perhaps i should have explained that we were training for quietus. He clearly hadn't seen one summer anyhow. This was an awesome solo effort by mark leach.

I think part of the reason for sean's struggling to dry out these days is due to tree growth on the opposite side of the valley above the red or dead buttress, this means the sun only comes in the cave for about 3 minutes rather than around 30-50 which'd vastly improve drying.

plenty more been going on too sheffside, just need ta pen it down