
As i'm sure you'll remember, to pass the time whilst the machine was outof action, myself and Ned decided that we'd put our 4years of hold wittling experience to use. Well the setting of these holds has now been completed and our vision of a "perfect board" has been realised for now. That said every "artist" needs a canvas (we see ourselves more as finger painting kids who got carried away). So the Depot have supplied us with a 4.5m wide monster, now it still needs a bit of touching up but we're pretty happy with what this collaboration has resulted in, its lead me to think about moving to Leeds just to consistently train on it as it really will be like having power handed to you on a plate to eat up. That said you'll need to be munching 7b to taste the appetizers and about 7c+ - 8b to make the most of it, if your not don't criticise it for being elitist, get strong in the other areas of the center and then appreciate the fact that you still have a medium to push you onwards, rather than stagnating. We plan to finish the board off with some trial wooden holds made off the machine, although this aspect of beastmaker is definately more the exception rather than the rule at the moment. Amazing boards have yet to proove their worth in commercial venues but if they can bring cellar dwellers back to walls by offering something which is better than can be made at home, then they can only be good for bouldering centers, not to mention giving people a bit of inspiration once in a while.
unless you've been caving for the past week then you'll have noticed that it has been a bit too "thailand" for training hard of late. I found myself using an electric lilo pump to funnel cool air out the service pit inorder so that i could have a fingerboard session the other night. After 1 day back in thumberland though i've already spied up some summer projects. One of which is an old line of the mighty Earl's which has to be one of the most impressive walls i've seen anywhere, ever, effort Andy!
although some anti ethical Karma smote me down today whilst on a cycling mission to town after a tour de france style slide out on a rather soggy corner at around 20mph, unfortunately for my wallet (but fortunate for my body) i slid along nicely on my arcteryx soft shell and so it is only my arse cheek which looks like something out of a butchers meat bin. Fingerboarding it is for a while then, ooh how apt.
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