Fingerboard info before ramblings:
33% of the company work force is competing in World Cups this week, so i will be doing my best, apologies for any ineptitude which may result.
We are not far off being able to sell the first batch of 1000 Series, as we are finally happy with them so they are to be milled this week.
The 2000 elite is our next little development project, (as are trialling new woods), we hope that the 2000 elite will be almost so hard its useless to 90% of the climbing population as this should enable the next generation of crushers to progress and 'realize' strength which has never been seriously attempted and thought about other than for the odd freak move, Ned reckons 47/8 degree slopers will go, which stands to reason as he can piss the 45s, the extra 3 degrees being provided by friction. i reckon rounded 1 arm 5mm drag deadhands will go one day, so they are going on etc. etc.
On my penultimate climbing day in Torridon Richie showed me a project in a cave which Lie O' Connor had mentioned as being futuristic! 2 weathered flakes immediately dropped off to leave perfect 1 pad sidepull edges, and a 30 degree wall which cuts away at the base, basically a dream line unfolded which is totally featureless save for the holds, i.e. a board problem but on rock, AMAZING! no tricks no nothing just pure power. I decided to gamble and try this rather than the arete project up the hill which i knew would go (ever the armchair visionary) I rested up the next day by attempting to swim in a variety of seas and water courses only to be smote by cramp within minutes, i was not ready for such pain and shrinkage; so driving round some of the nicest roads in the country in the 200bhp VRS had to suffice. Oh Well...
Come the next day i was ready for battle, the stand went at 8aish, then a slight adjustment to the foot sequence turned it into a nice 7c! (just shows how much these things matter) What with it being an amazing problem which climbs out a cave it was only fair to name it 'Robert the Brute'
It then took me a further 20minutes to pull on in a crouched position from 1 move lower, i couldn't have been any happier! then after a few more goes i was exploding wildly onto the stand up hold but, in reality nowhere near holding it. To me this project represents another level of power which lies somewhere around hard 8G. It is also a joy to find 8G moves on such a pure piece of rock.
With that and a brief recce to the south lakes on the way down i feel it is time to stick my neck back in and to work hard at finding another level from somewhere, i think over the past year i've begun to see where this would come from but i haven't tapped into it, so i'm keen to explore those paths, take a step back for a while and to see whether theory can be put into practice.
Labels: beastmaker, beastmaker fingerboards training, bouldering